New Developments

PARACLIMBING

Paraclimbing is Sport Climbing for athletes with disabilities. Athletes are placed into a Sport Class Sport Class based on their disability, to allow those with a disability of a similar nature to compete within the same category.
The IFSC has been hosting Paraclimbing competitions since 2006, when the first international event saw athletes from four National Federations compete in Ekaterinburg, Russia. The movement has grown in recent years, with a regular circuit being added to the IFSC calendar from 2010 and IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships taking place from July 2011. It has become tradition that the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships run alongside the IFSC Climbing World Championships, promoting athletes with a disability on the same stage as other athletes. Proud of the rapid growth of the Paraclimbing community, and of the increasing standard of competitions, the IFSC remains dedicated to developing and strengthening the competitions and support available to athletes.
In 2017, the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) granted the IFSC the status of “Recognised International Federation”.

In October 2018, a plan was elaborated for developing the sport further. The plan was unanimously approved at the 2019 IFSC General Assembly in Tokyo, Japan, officially declaring the start of a new era for Paraclimbing and its vibrant, committed, and enthusiastic community.

PARACLIMBING ACHIEVEMENTS

2020 A set of Paraclimbing Routesetting Guidelines were created and published by the IFSC Paraclimbing Committee. Due to COVID-19 many Paraclimbing activities such as the Paraclimbing Classifier Course and first Classification under the lead of IPC experts were postponed, but the rework of the Classification rules and system according to the IPC Model Rules is ongoing.

2019 The Paraclimbing World Championships in Briançon, France, set new records, with 158 athletes (111 men and 47 women) representing 24 different countries participating in the event.
The IFSC General Assembly unanimously approved a Paraclimbing development plan in March 2019, with one step of the plan being to form a new Paraclimbing Committee .
A first Paraclimbing Routesetting Seminar was held in Sittard, the Netherlands, in November 2019.

2018 The Paraclimbing World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria, had a new record participant number, with 126 athletes participating from 19 different countries.

2013 - 2017 Paraclimbing world cups, Paraclimbing Masters, and Paraclimbing World Championships were held, with the latter taking place every even year and including up to 72 athletes from 20 different countries. The Paraclimbing Commission (disbanded in 2019) made various modifications to the Paraclimbing Rule and Event Format. The Classification system was expanded up to 10 theoretical categories for men and women to ensure a fair competition. In 2017, the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) granted the IFSC the status of “Recognised International Federation”.

2012 The Paraclimbing World Championships in Paris, France, saw 61 athletes from 20 different countries competing - almost doubling the number of athletes and country representation from the previous year.

2011 The first IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships took place in Arco, Italy, with 35 athletes representing 11 different countries.

2006 The first international Paraclimbing event was held in Ekaterinburg, Russia.

Gyms and Trends 2020

Generic placeholder image COVID-19 mitigation efforts like face-masks became the “new normal” at climbing gyms around the world. (Photo courtesy of The Spot)

CBJ published that Gyms and Trends article in February, 2020. Approximately one month later, operations in the climbing industry in North America—and throughout the world— began to change drastically. A new factor emerged that became widespread and impactful at a scale never seen before in the modern gym climbing era. Indeed, the COVID-19 pandemic hit with full force, and its major effects are still challenging the climbing industry nearly one year later.


That first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic stateside in March 2020 proved to be as destructive as it was unpredictable. Gym attendance everywhere plummeted as people became increasingly cognizant (and in some cases increasingly fearful) of the Coronavirus’ transmissibility. Related to the gym industry, the Tokyo Olympics—where climbing was set to make its highly-publicized debut—were postponed. The annual Climbing Wall Association (CWA) Summit was cancelled and CWA, as the industry’s trade association, shifted to providing ongoing pandemic-related resources and support, including a roadmap for reopening.

To that point, the pandemic unified the industry, in a way, as gyms showed transparency in exchanging information on CWA community calls and surveys, sharing protocols and data, offering lessons learned and further problem solving together. In the United States, practically every climbing gym in every state was deemed a “non-essential business” and forced to temporarily close at some point in the spring or summer of 2020 as the Coronavirus continued to spread around the country. Gyms eventually reopened with significant mitigation measures (such as reservation time-slots, required face-masks, lowered capacities, and enforced social distancing…all of which contributed to a “new normal” for the climbing gym experience).

Such collectivism by gyms was hardly a long-term silver lining, however; many gyms were forced to temporarily close again in the fall of 2020 as another wave of the COVID-19 pandemic surged; some of those gyms even chose to remain open, going against mandatory municipal orders and risking serious legal penalties—all in an attempt to stay financially afloat.

The temporary closure of so many gyms amid stay-at-home orders did result in a boom for the homewall tier of the climbing industry. As early as April, CBJ announced that the “Era of Home Climbing Walls” had arrived. Indeed, 67 percent of homewall owners responding to an October survey answered that they built their homewall in response to the pandemic. And since it is unlikely that many new homewallers will choose to quickly disassemble their walls in a post-pandemic world, this widespread interest in homewalls―as well as the uptick in at-home fitness offerings provided by gyms―will likely remain a key part of the industry going forward.


Some climbing records

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Nirmal 'Nims' Purja

Nationality: Nepali
Born: 1983
Nims Purja blasted through the world’s 14 highest mountains in little more than six months in 2019 – which certainly gives him some pretty high credentials in the world of mountaineering.
The former Gurkha and soldier of the Special Boat Service (SBS) climbed Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within two days and 30 minutes and smashed the previous 14 summits record of seven years, 11 months and 14 days. In 2021 he was part of a team that completed the first summit of K2 in winter, something that was often referred to as 'the last great mountaineering challenge.'

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Reinhold Andreas Messner

Nationality: Italian
Born: 1944
Born September 17, 1944 is an Italian mountaineer, adventurer, explorer, and author from the autonomous Italian province of South Tyrol.
He made the first trek of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, with Peter Habeler, and was the first climber to climb all fourteen peaks above 8,000 meters above sea level. He was also the first person to cross Antarctica and Greenland without a sled or dog sled. Furthermore, he had crossed the Gobi desert alone. Messner also published more than 80 books about his experiences as a mountaineer and adventurer.

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Colin Haley

Nationality: American
Born: 1962
Famous for finding George Mallory’s body on Mount Everest in 1999, Anker has achieved several alpine firsts including Meru, Vinson Massif, Ulvettana and El Capitan and has climbed summits from Alaska to Antarctica.
He led The North Face climbing team for 26 years, survived an avalanche in 1999 and overcame a heart attack while climbing Lunag Ri in 2016. That year, he also won Climbing Magazine’s Golden Pitons Lifetime Achievement.

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